B2
B1
Oil Consumption cure in a MKVI or a R Type by John Prescott
Updated on 12/12/2005 with a problem shown at the end of the article

My mechanic told me it was that time of the year to change the oil in my cars. My answer to this was that the engines burn so much oil that the oil changing process was continual without my intervention.

With this at the back of my mind, I approached a couple of well known engine re-builders who gave me horrendous reasons for the oil consumption, worn valve guides, worn piston rings, the engine probably needed new cylinder liners and of course if all this was undertaken, a tremendous stress would be placed on the crankshaft bearings and some other parts. Whilst they were recounting all this with practised glee, it was at this stage my eyes clouded only to hear them say that there would not be much change out of £10,000. They said that just taking the engine out was a 45 hour job on the MKVI !!

Mentioning this to Ashley James, he referred me to an article on his website http://www.kda132.plus.com/Technical/SectionB/oilleak/oilleak.html that explained that the situation was most probably not as serious as everyone was telling me. Having studied this article, here is my experience of his suggestion.



Firstly as Ashley has explained, all those faults that could possibly be the cause might not necessarily be the case. The most probable cause was large quantities of oil seeping through worn inlet valve seals. (This engine has 6 overhead inlet valves - the exhaust valves are side valves.)

The original seals are made with wound asbestos string that had been impregnated with Russian Tallow. Over the course of the past 50 years and many thousands of miles, these could well have disintegrated making them useless as a seal.

Ashley's suggestion is to buy some Payen seals, part number HR336, for a General Motors engine. These seals are placed over the valve stem under the valve springs and deflect the majority of oil away from the disintegrated seal. The seals are available through most motor factors at a cost of £9.00 for a pack of 4 though of course you will need 6 seals. The earlier versions were made of rubber with the latest version being made of metal. These need to be filed down to a maximum height of 0.425"


"WHAT!! Off with her head" do I hear you groaning!! No, this is not necessary. After removing the overhead camshaft, a simple job of undoing 6 bolts, the valve springs need removing with a valve compressor to get at the seals.

There are two methods to do this to ensure that the valves do not drop down into the cylinder.

Method 1. If you have an airline with at least 90psi available, this can be connected to each cylinder in turn and with the respective valves fully closed, the valve spring and collets can be removed.

Method 2. Rolls-Royce made a special tool, that when inserted into the spark plug hole, holds the valve up securely in place. (See photos and diagram from the Service Manual alongside Ashley's home made version.)

 
Fig. B25. Rolls-Royce tool with valve compressor above
Printed with permission of Bentley Motors Ltd
Rolls-Royce tool
Ashley James' hand made tool using a spark plug

Old broken down Oil Seals
New Oil Seals

Whilst doing this, it made eminent sense to also replace the original seals at the same time. These cost about £2.00 each and are available from Ristes amongst others. These seals should be soaked in a light oil for about an hour before inserting them.

All went very smoothly except for one hiccup. The last valve to be done was on cylinder 6 against the bulkhead. The special tool could not be operated correctly as the chassis oil reservoir attached to the bulkhead was in the way. It was either a question of removing the reservoir or finding a way around. This we did by inserting the tool into the sparkplug hole at an angle and then tying it in place.

The cost of parts was £26.00 in total. Bonnet up time was 4 hours but I cheated. Ian Bowdery, the local (South London) Rolls-Royce and Bentley trained mobile mechanic did the dirty work.

I supervised, took photos and generally got in the way whilst also doing my day job, computer programming. Within 5 minutes of starting the engine, the exhaust pipe was heaving a sigh of relief with a very noticeable reduction of smoke. This will further decrease when old oil in the system is burnt away.

So next week it is the turn of the R Type and maybe the Cloud II before Xmas.

 
Ian Bowdery
And now a few weeks later, it was the R Type's turn............

Horrors.......

Eveything was going according to plan, when all of a sudden one of the colletts had a mind of its own and jumped out as if chased by a ferret - straight down one of the push rod holes. The push rod was in place but that did not stop the little blighter. "Forward and onwards" it cried disappearing into the depths of the engine below.

To retrieve this, the side panel that provides access to the exhaust valve tappets had to be removed. ( It is a part side valve, part overhead valve engine). Before doing that though, the forward manifold had to be removed also to get at the side panel. Having done that, the collett was found cowering in a pond of oil.

SOLUTION - Before tackling the other oil seals and valves, we stuffed plenty of garage towelling paper and rag into every orifice we could find.